Terminology: Lawn: organic ground cover, usually mowed Turf: Only grass species are used, and mowed at a regular frequency (including the thatch) \ Made up of: Root zone - soil containing organic matter and microorganisms Thatch: dead and decaying material, along with some vegetative tissues, includes microorganisms, found in the space between the soil and vegetative area, critical for the health of turfgrass stand. Vegetation: the sheath and leaf material (inflorescence is not included) Types of turf: Cultural intensity: amount of work required to grow that grass changes depending on function of turf stand Another variable is if its a monostand or a polystand Monostand: one species of grass (sports) Polystand: multiple/ mix of grass species (lawn/utility turf) Sports turf: for fields, less dense Lawn: aesthetics Utility turf: for dust control and to prevent soil erosion (ditches, airports) Monocots and Dicots differences: Monocots: parallel venation, single cotyledon, flower parts in threes Dicots: netted venation, two cotyledons Vegetative reproduction: Tillers: May form bunchy growth Doesn’t have as many regenerative resources Scalping can be devastating Regenerates most of its root system each spring Rhizomes: Typically provides the best recuperative capacity Adventitious roots are insulated and protected In the spring, they have the competitive advantage Stolons: Adventitious shoots May not be very well rooted Can cause patchy/ circular growth Also regenerates most of its root system each spring How to ID grass: Flowers Growth habit Vernation Ligule (prominent or not) Auricle Sheath characteristics (colour, overlapping or split) Blade characteristics (wide/narrow, colour, glossy/dull) Growth stage 1: Germination + establishment Growth stage 2: Vegetative stage: increases root mass and vegetative growth Growth stage 3: reproductive Growth stage 4: acclimation All grasses are poaceae Kentucky Bluegrass (Poa Pretensis): Germination Rate: 21 days Pros: High quality, fine ot medium textured turf under medium (to high) management **Excellent wear tolerance** Rapid rapair due to aggressive rhizome Cons: More prone to summer dormancy (inactive during extended drought) Doesn’t tolerate excessive acidic infertile soils Slow to germinate Low seedling vigor and poor competitive ability with weeds Usage: General purpose - lawns parks cemeteries… Sport turf - athletic fields Golf courses - all except greens Commercial so production alone (monostand), or blended (polystand with red fescue) Kentucky Bluegrass dominates in full sun Management preferences: pH: 5-7 Preferred mowing height: 20-75mm Medium to high fertility 0.25 - 0.75 of nitrogen per 100 sq Meters per growing month Regular irrigation during summer heat stress to prevent wilt/dormancy, and to sustain density Cultivar: plants of the same species that are distinguished by various characteristics When reproduced they retain: shade tolerance, leaf width and colour, tolerance for mow height, low temp hardiness, heat and drought tolerance, disease and insect tolerance, fertility and establishment Perennial ryegrass (lelium perenne): Germination rate: 5-7 days Pros: Seeds germinate rapidly Excellent seedling vigor, beneficial in erosion control (new seedbeds, so hills) Has best low soil temperature germination of all turfgrasses (5-8 C) Endophyte enhanced seed available Improved drought resistance, insect tolerance (surface feeding insects especially) Very little thatch development Better tolerance of road salt than kentucky bluegrass Cons: Irregular upright growth Reflection contrast and low density Mixed reports on winter hardiness Can suffer from poor visual appearance after mowing due to shredded tips General use: Nurse-grass to aid in establishment of KB/RF turf mixes As a quick cover crop - temporary repairs to make turf area functional Spring overseeding of heavily damaged areas Reasonably good shade tolerance - widely used on shaded heavy wear areas with frequent overseeding Management preferences: Mowing height: 20-75mm (same as KB) Water requirements are less than most other turfgrasses but some irrigation necessary Nitrogen: 0.1-0.5 per 100 sq.m per growing month (very low) Seeding rate: 3.2 - 4.0 kg/100m2 Overseed as frequently as necessary to maintain density Creeping Red Fescue (Festuca Rubra ssp Rubra): Germination rate: 7-14 days Pros: Outstanding turf for drier, shaded locations and will grow well in full sun Leaf growth rate slower than other grasses. Forms a fine textured turf of high shoot density, uniformity and quality Cons: Weak rhizomes and slow growth rate equate to reduced recuperative capacity (compared to KB) Thatch decomposes very slowly because of high lignin content in leaf sheath Does not tolerate wet, poorly drained soils General use: Often mixed with Poa Pratensis (KB) Used in parks, cemeteries, roadsides, airfields Produces an acceptable home lawn, found in “Eco” turf blend Management preferences: Low to moderate cultural intensity Mowing height: 20-50mm (shorter than KB) Higher cuts means its more suscetible to disease competitive ability reduced. Nitrogen: 0.1 to 0.25 kg per sq.m per growing month Seeding rate: 1.6-2.0 kg/ 100 sqm Other fescues: Sheep fescue Chewings fescue Hard fescue Added to eco blends to have a biodiverse and stronger ecosystem of grasses Creeping Bentgrass (Agrostis Stolonifera): Germination rate: 10-14 days Pros: Excellent low temperature toleance Excellent resistance to ice damage Most tolerant turfgrass of continuous close mowing Fine textures, capable of producing a high quality turf with superior shoot density and uniformity Vigorous stolon growth, roots at nodes offering good recuperative capacity Cons: Extremely high cultural intensity required to maintain properly Varies in colour - greenish/yellow to blue/green, depending on cultivar Not as wear tolerant as KB or perrenial ryegrass High disease suceptibility Prone to herbicide injury - especially 2,4-D; use mecoprop only Tendency to thatch - above ground stolons in combination with nitrogen Cannot be used in a polystand with KB because of aggressive patchy, creeping growth habit Turf becomes very puffy at higher mowing General use: Sports turf (greens, tees, fairways, tennis courts and lawn bowling, planted a a monostand) Management preferences: Mowing height: 4-20mm (very low) Frequent irrigation Nitrogen: 0.25 to 0.75 per 100sq.m per growing month (quite high - same as KB) Topdressing required to control thatch Shallow vertical mowing and brushing (verticutting) to control grain Prefers moist, cool, fertile soil Power raking required to ensure water/oxygen infiltration Seeding rate: 0.2-0.5kg/100sq.m Quackgrass (Elymus Repens): Perennial noxious weed: there are no pros no management preferances Known to have alleopathic control 95% of lateral buds are dormant Rhizomes can travel more than 3 meters underground and invade other areas Once established, very difficult to control due to lack of selective herbicides Can be controlled at the 3-4 leaf stage Must use non-selective systemic herbicide Consider “weed and feed” Repeat every month Hand paint leaves with herbicide Rhizomes can cross underneath sidewalks or cracks Ensure new areas to be seeded are kept clean of rhizomes Use of mulch helps with control in shrub beds Annual Bluegrass (Poa Annua): Apple green colour (stands out against KB/CRF/PR) Considered a weed in our climate and in most applications due to incompatible colour and circular growth habit Well adapted andwill set seed at low mowing heights Encourage the grass you do want so it doesn’t have a chance Considered a weed in most applications due to incompatible colour and circular growth pattern Has been known to produce 60 seedlings per square inch Prefers over-watered compacted ground, will be very competitive in this situation Very aggressive - can complete it life cycle in 7 weeks Does not enter summer dormancy; really starts to grow in june Cons: Very poor winter heartiness & high temp tolerance Shallow roots = poor drought tolerance/no recouperative potential Where you find it: Heavily compacted areas where no grass will grow Areas prone to excessive soil moisture (poor drainage) Poor soil quality (structure/texture) areas Invades high intensity traffic areas nd intensively cultures areas managed under low mowing heights - bowling/golf greens Management to DISCOURAGE growth (encourage other competitive species): Reduce or eliminate compaction Aerate before summer or in early fall longer , less frequent irrigation cycles Reduce nitrogen levels, Restrict phosphorus levels Increase mowing heights above 25mm Repair damaged areas quickly Utility Goundcover: Scenarios that require groundcover other than turfgrasses: Sloped for erosion control Green roofs Ditches (and other utility areas) native/ reclaimed plantings -manmade meadows -true reclamation projects Low maintenance landscape designs (bunch type grasses) Low maintenance groundcovers Features: Occasional mowing No watering No fertilizing Characteristics: Drought tolerance Speed of establishment Root type Widely adapted soil preference Rate of speed Agricultural/ ditch grasses: Used as pasture grass Excellent for erosion control Dont use next to natural areas before checking, because some are invasive Alkali grass; moist, saline soils, sod forming Foxtail barley: weed, animals cannot eat it, bunch type, spreads via seeds INVASIVES: Bromus - smooth brome Agropyron - crested wheatgrass Ornamental grasses: native in Alberta and/or introduced Attractive inflorescence or foliage Good for low - no mow boulevards and island beds Be sure to contain them Mat forming vs clumping Low maintenance legumes: Compensate for poor soil quality Root system contains bacteria that form nodules Capable of fixing free nitrogen Intolerance to herbicides Clover: Low nitrogen fixation Long lived seeds Sweet flowers Bee turf plant Bee turf: Sweet alyssum (attracts predatory insects) Clovers (N fixer, pollinator) Fescues (low needs) Yarrow (native pollinator plant) Roman chamomile (pollinator) Site Prep and Seeding: Site prep: (prior to landscapers) Issuance of lot grading certificate Check the subgrade Rough grading -installation of screened loam over subgrade (15-30 cm minimum for turf) - avoid compaction by: start at home work towards the gate, leaving an avenue for machine access, walk on plywood after completion. - Installation of drainage materials and service Turf Prep: Decompaction of turf area Avoidance is best One time tillage Soil conditioners like rockhounds or a mechanized rake Finish grade Small sites - landscape rakes Large sites - part of decompaction or seeding Tolerances - vary by site, smaller ones are finished more carefully Seeding: Timing and seed: Roots are most active in soil temps 10-18 C Perennial rye allows for earlier seeding Late spring or early summer - better chance of rain, full season of growth Mid-summer, not enough moisture Fall - early winter weather before turf has been established can reduce overwintering potential. Dormant seeds may give a jumpstart. Quality of seed: fresh, high-quality seed, store it cool and dry Seeding tools: Broadcast spreaders: broadcast the material in a fan-shaped pattern Drop spreaders: Drop the seed straight down. Can be used at any scale - by hand (from a bucket or crank) walk at a consistent speed Keep your eye on the horizon apply cross directionally. Calculate the correct seed/ calibrate Cross-directional seeding: Hydroseeding: spraying a seed slurry uniformly over an area Preferred method of seeding on large, low-maintenance sites and utility areas Ingredients: must be seed and water, often mulch, fertilizer, and tackifier are added. Mulch: wood fiber mixed into slurry Possibly biodegradable organic matting Tackifier: bonding agent creating a mat like layer Keeps seed in contact with the mulch material Prevents entire seed/ mulch mat from blowing away Fertilizer: high phosphorus compound for rooting Advantages: Quick Covers large areas Allows access to inasscessible areas Disadvantages: Expensive Poor quality control Slurry has to be correct Seed calculations: Amount of seed required is determined by area Regular sites: rates in kg/100m2 Large sites: rates in kg per hectare (kg/Ha) (1Ha is 10,000m2 americans use lbs/acre Steps for calculating how much seed you need: Need to know how many different species and cultivars are in the mix What is the percentage of each? How large is your area? (kg/100m2) Using of seeding rates: Low number is minimum for a reasonable stand of turf where irrigation available Higher number is maximum for assuring a dense stand of turf under less cultural intensity Figure out correct seeding rate Divide the given area in square meters Multiple A/100 from step 1 by the seeding rate (area/100) x seeding rate = quantity of seed Polystands: (area/100) x seeding rate x % of species Post seeding care: Mulch: new plants are sensitive, easily damaged Short term protection Must biodegrade or be removed before seedling are choked out Should be fine textured, easy to apply (and clean up), cheap, biodegradable, allowing air flow (straw, jute, coir netting, compost topdress, Watering: Most critical aspect of post seeding care Seedlings dont have an adequate root system Seedlings are prone to environmental conditions *Rule of thumb: keep top 5cm of soil moist at all times for he first 4-6 weeks As seedlings maure, less frequent, longer waterings are better to promote deeper rooting Nutrient regime: as seedlings grow, it requires an increasing amount of nutrient Earliest stages of growth - slow release Applied PRIOR to seeding Root development High phosphorous (root promoting) 1:2:0 or 1:3:0 ratio Mowing: Time: when turf is fairly well established and approaching the highest tolerable mowing height No regular traffic on turf until after second mowing Allowing higher height initially will help to enhance rooting, plant can adapt a bit better Weed control: should not be sprayed withing the first 4-6 weeks after emergence First mowing is often the initial form of weed control -turf will become more agressive -will compete with weeds for space, water, light, nutrients -weeds receive a physiological shock which reduces their competitive ability Lay sod perpendicular to the slope with staggered joints. Desiccation: drying out soil (if you dont tarp sod when transporting it) Tarping for safety and desiccation. Shelf life of sod: 12 hours Advantages of sodding: Instant green Ground cover Knits quickly No need for herbicides Protects from erosion Can be installed anytime Disadvantages: More expensive upfront species/ cultivar selection may be limited Requires more watering immediately (irrigation is more expensive Transporting harvested sod Outer edges and top of stacks are prone to desiccation Protect with tarps Storage: Layer of soil and loyer of actively growing tissue Warm moist environment will initiate decomposition Always install perpendicular to the slope so water has more pathways = more infiltration* Joints must fit tightly to ensure success Begin at bottom and work your way up Post-installation care; Sod is prone to drought and desiccation Water immediately following installation Water thoroughly to soak through rhizomes and into soil Mowing: As soon a necessary based on aerial shoot and root growth Sod is mature and can be mowed immediately. Maintenance: Fertilizer Mowing Watering Raised up of down depending on: environment/ plant growth stage Turfgrass mowing: removes part of the foliage by Tearing or slicing Affects the plant’s physiology The effect: Fluid exudes from the leaf This fluid is water + organic compounds (guttation exudation) Plant tries to repair the wound Open wounds create entre points for pathogens Plant tried to replace lost tissue Carb usage for repair causes energy dips Weak plants are susceptible to pathogens Additional stresses can be enough to severely damage plant Root growth stops while the plant fixes the wound Turf responses: Continued mowing increases: Shoot growth and density Tillering, rhizome, and stolon formation Overall amount of chlorophyll Increased succulence in the shoots Continued mowing decreases: The overall size of the plant Shorter root systems and plant heights Mowing heights: distance above the soil surface at which the turf is mowed Mowing heights of turfgrass is determined by: Natural growth habit of the turf Health and condition of the turf Purpose for which the turf is used Range: KB: 20-75mm PR: 20-75mm CRF: 20-50mm Unbreakable rule: Never remove more than ⅓ of the leaf tissue in one mowing A home lawn polystand should range between 33-50mm Scapling: when too much foliage is removed in a single mowing Uneven ground, excessive thatch, infrequent mowing intervals Grass turns brown, stubby Most of green tissue had been removed Plant chapped back to sheath and crown Not used to exposure and dries out Mowing quality: Dull mowers: Shred leaves Plants take much longer to recover Grass may discolour Puts extra strain on your engine (when its good quality you can more more frequently) Good quality cuts produce: A sharp even cutto reduce sealing and recovery period Prevention of desiccation and disease etc. Balanced relationship between fertility and cutting quality Mowing frequency: determined by shoot growth rate, funcition of turf, Cutting height, environmental conditions Can be determined using the ⅓ rule and the question (are there clippings produced when i mow?) Types of mowers: Reel: scissor action of blades mounted on a cylinder and rotate against a fixed bed knife Expensive to purchase and maintain Rotary: horizontal blades spinning at high speeds and the action tears off the blade of the grass Inexpensive to purchase and maintain Does not always produce a fine and clean cut Articulating mowers are useful on areas with undulations - versatile Flail: spins a cylinder with sharpened knived that hang from a pivot Used for rough cutting Tears the grass plant Clippings: remove vs no removal Removal: No removal: Reduces disease Reduce injury from clipping “piles” Less interference with play Frequency reduces need to remove clippings Reduces fertiization requirements Clippings can be mulched Insulation layer to moderate temperatures Increases wear tolerance Adds to humus layer and mat Low maintenance polystand with CRF Mowing at high end (once per week) Increase relative percentage of crf fro slower regrowth Set your mower ar 1”-1.5” Increase mowing frequency if so, or evaluate the health of the turf and suggest a reduction in fertilizer and water. Water: Water use: Photosynthesis and turgidity: Required for photosynthesis Transport medium for starches sugars and carbs With sufficient turgidity: stomata open, cells are stronger (wilted plants lose aggressiveness, wear tolerance, and recuerative ability Transpiration: Absorption, transport, and release of water via xylem Regulates leaf temperature Pulls fertilizer in solution throughout plant Process peaks on hot days, and slower at night or cooler days, moist conditions Different types of grasses have different water content ad requirements. Any damage will require more moisture. Water gain: absorption: Most roots absorption occurs through the root hairs Secondary absorption trough the foliage - leaves and stems Healthy roots; white branches and hairy Rate of absorption depends on: Number of root tips Rate of root growth How deep the root system has grown Amount of available in rootzone Soil temperature Rate of absorption is reduced by: Excessive nitrogen or sodium Overwatering Compacted soils Water loss: source : evopotranspiration Leaf surfaces ecoporation from the soil with low density Wind ( wicks away moisture, cool strong winds are worse than light hot breezes Initial symptom of water deficits is a colour change from an emerald green to dark blue green Wilt: occurs after colour change Turfgrass lays down or leaves droop and stay that way “foot printing” No permanent damage from wilt Wilt greatly reduces plants ability to withstand wear Wilt: traffic over wilted turfgrasses can result in injury Cell walls can be permanently damaged In extreme cases, the plant cant recover when water is replaced Leaf tips will be dead sbove where the damage has occured Plant will regrow when watered again (dead growth can be mowed off) Signs of initial wilt present as foot printing: the ability of grass to spring back after being walked on Wilt remediation: Reduce transpiration Proper irrigation Syringe after first symptoms Increase absorption: maintain active healthy roots Drought: summer dormancy Prolonged water stress that limits or prevents turfgrass growth Wilting cycle is repeated Leaf firing and dormancy Death of a plant if water deficit continues for a sufficient period of time Extended periods with no irrigation, high ET rate, no precipitation Water sources: Precipitation: effectiveness of precipitation depends on degree of water infiltration All irrigation systems should have their precipitation rates (PR) closely aligned with infiltration rate of the soil High intensity cycles that excess infiltration rates promote excessive water loss through runoff Frequent light irrigation promotes shallow rooted species (poa annua) and water is lost to evaporation Rule of thumb: long duration/ low intensity irrigation cycles promote deep rooted turfgrass species and placed stress on shallow rooted species Water out must balance water in (internally) Fertilizer: Plants photosynthesize and respire to support life They are primarily made of C,H, O Fertilizer uptake and use: Depends on: Plant growth stage (emergence, vegetative or reproductive Health of root system Availability and quality of water Fertilizer formulation Soil chemistry & health (microbial life) Mineral groupings: Macronutrients: (3 primary) (3 secondary) Micronutrients: (7 trace elements) Primary elements: NPK Secondary elements: Calcium, magnesium, sulfur Microelements (trace): Iron, Boron, manganese, copper, zinc, molybdenum, chlorine Nitrogen: vital component for new growth, needed more in early growth stages - vegetative growth / tissue development Active within plant (not fixed) - moves to the new growth, plants reduce it differently, to understand how its used and understand specific plants Not reliable on soil tests due to leaching (NO3- or NH4+) Can volatilize (can turn into gas) if the formulation is not correct (n2 released by O2 loving bacteria. Ammonia released from urea *no nitrogen is reliable on a soil test* Luxury consumption (nitrate): Delayed maturity Rank growth: succulent soft growth (elongated cell walls) Low tolerance to temperature/ moisture variability Prone to insect and disease attacks Deficiencies manifest as: chlorosis (old/basal leaves) To compare, compare new growth to old growth Nitrogen - toxicity: Issue with indoor plants during the winter (cool temps, low light) Plants generally use more nitrates, but is the soil microorganisms are inactive due to cold, they will not convert it into usable nitrates Ammonium toxicity: plants cannot safely store ammonium like they can nitrates. If its too cold, wet, or compactedm ammonium builds up in the media because the bacteria are not active, and then the plant luxuriously consumes it and causes harm in storage tissues. Nitrogen deficiency: yellowing basal leaves with dark green upper growth Phorphorus - P: root growth Rapid development of roots + respiration, photosynthesis, cell division and differentiation Used for energy transfer within the plant Backbone of DNA Hastens maturity, forms flowers and seed Poor establishment is an indicator of low P MOBILE P toxicity: maybe a dark green leaf Iron and calcium ties up phosphorus at low ph Release mechanisms in soil is microbial activity **pH is often the reason for poor availaiblity** (if you suspect a phorphoruous problem you must do a pH test) Cold temps also create signs of P deficiency (must have warm soils for phosphorus availability Potassium - K: controls water movement between cells and the thickening of cell walls Soluble salt in a plant Highly mobile Regulates stomatal opening Deficiency: presents as marginal necrosis (browning) Luxury consumption may happen May lead to soil nutrient depletion May hinder magnesium uptake Secondary elements: Calcium: for the “bones” of the plant **Immobile** Transported in the xylem (water stream) Structural nutrient - found in cell walls - no new cells without it Influences growth of apical meristem Prevents leaching of salts Deficiency: Terminal bud, root tip failure Weak stems with leaf spotting Poor fruit development (blossom end rot, spotting, or bitter pit) Soil toxicity: to much can raise soil pH, high pH does not mean calcium is available. Excess ammonia can inhibit uptake Magnesium: primary mineral element in chlorophyll - plant enzyme activator **mobile** like nitrogen (link them) Deficiency: Interveinal chlorosis in older leaves Leaves curl upwards on margin Marginal yellowing Toxicity: rare but interferes with trace element absorption Sulfur: used in photosystems/ photosynthesis: deficiency holds back growth **immobile** Chlorosis similar to nitrogen, but in NEW growth first Trace elements: If you have a trace element problem, you have a bigger problem Molybdenum - used in nitrogen cycle - N deficiency Copper -stabilizes chlorophyll(lengthens leaf life) - looks like B deficiency Chlorine - deficiency=wilt, chlorosis, bronzing toxicity= scorching, firing leaf tips, yellowing, leaf drop Iron: - Respiration & chlorophyll formation - interveinal chlorosis Boron - not fully understood Manganese - absorbed in leaves - looks like IV chlorosis Zinc - roots and foliar sprays/fungicides - stunted growth, poor seed formation Fertilizer formulations and calculations: **first response should NEVER be add fertilizer Factors that affect nutrient uptake: Health and vigor of the root system Root system must be actively growing for uptake to occur Soil moisture and air content pH level of soil Alkaline soils lead to decreased uptake of Mn, Fe, Zn, B, Cu, P - ideal 6.5-7.5 Soil and air temperature Natural origins: carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen Nitrogen: taken from nitrogen cycle, applied in compounds and changed easily Phorphorous: taken from rock phosphate ores Potassium: remains in ionic form - naturally occuring Release mechanisms of fertilizers: Micro-organisms (warm soil temps, good oxygen) Water (softens and dilutes) Chemical reactions (natural process) Analysis: percent composition of a fertilizer All bags must have analysis printed on them Its the percentage of actual mineral in the bag Salt index: high salt index + high temperatures = high foliar burn - Saline soils become more saline with high salt index Acidifying elements: ammonium form N = acidity *rest of the bag is fillers like salts, sand, ground corn cob, and other inert materials* Less concentrated fert: would use because of distribution issues, dont have to calibrate/do math and theres no human error Most fertilizer programs are based on nitrogen requirements (rates given in KG of actual nitrogen per 100 sq.m) Rule of thumb: 3:1:2 ratio throughout the growing season will produce adequate growth Formulations: Refers to what it is made of Key factors: release timing and release mechanism 2 categories: Synthetic fertilizers - man made salts Soluble crystal, prill, granule Organic fertilizers - carbon formations Synthetic, immediate release fertilizers: Usually dyed blue, powder/crystal formation Immediately available, limited residual response Cheap per unit N Dissociate into respective ions in solution Plants absorb roughly .15 kg nitrogen in any application (rest is leached) Lasts 2 weeks - ish during active growth Foliar fertilizers: taken in from the leaves: is more expensive - used in golf courses Synthetic SLOW release: Release mechanisms & time vary by formation and coating N is controlled release to combat 0.15 kg absorption rule *water insoluble- relies on microorganisms or chemical processes* Slowly Soluble: Requires a constant presence of water to dilute and move through permeable membranes Coated fertilizer: as the coat cracks, nutrients are released Stabilized Urea: product with urease inhibitors (stops the enzyme/ slows ammonium conversion process) Organic fertilizers: Derived from natural sources Broken down by soil microorganisms into usable form - slow process in cold temperatures Not readily soluble Longer residual - less leaching No foliar burn Higher cost Lower N analysis (less than 10%) Fertilizer burn: because most fertilizers are salts and salts cause desiccation Through roots; wilt Through cells; dead leaves Fertilizers provide nutrients that are necessary, but can be toxic in the wrong proportions Turf Growth Cycles: Need to work with the cycle for healthy turf Optimum soil temp: 10-18 C Optimum air temp: 18-27 C *Usually when one is at their temp, the other is in the optimum range too* Ideal weather conditions = plant growth Roots deepen first, then top growth follows Vegetative growth occurs early in the season (cool soil, high moisture) Summer soils - temps increase, moisture levels drop Plant responses: 1. Escapism (seeds) 2. Avoidance (change) 3. Tolerance (dormancy) Roots decrease to dormant depths, shoots do not decrease as much Top growth begins to turn brown Plants require more irrigation to stay green In fall, temps cool and turfgrass recovers Eventually, shoot growth decreases and roots follow **Growth cycles vary by species, weather, and management** Fertilizer Recap: Applying fertilizer to turf: (similar to seeding) Select a process based on the formulation Calculate the required amount based on analysis, growth stage and environment Calibrate the spreader Cross directional pattern WATER IT IN Monitor effect Repeat when needed (based on formulation, growth stage and environment Fertilizer calculations: Nutrient = weight x percentage (of nutrient) Know KB fertilizer rate: KB = 0.25-0.75 kg of N/100m2/growing month Weight of fertilizer = rate of actual N Analysis (as a decimal) Ranges: Low end: starve out weed grasses, if it will leach, mown less, end of season High end (high maintenance): water is applied and mown regularly if its a poly stand use a rate that keeps them all competitive Exterior Maintenance Techniques: Bed prep: is it for veggies or bedding plants Soil amendment? Rake out the surface Edge maintenance: plastic edging or bricks to accentuate the line Deep edge (30cm deep, backfilled with mulch) Concrete edge: maybe not deep enough, mid-cost Pavers; expensive plastic/metal: precision edge, traditional plastic Wood: can be expensive/ susceptible to warping Maintaining annual beds: High-quality plant material Space plants properly Supply proper fertilization and water (consider mulch) Regular maintenance (pulling weeds by hand) Scout for problems Visual cues for issues: Wilt, browning, or drying: shows inconsistencies in watering Yellow, spots, or holes on leaves: sign of bacterial, fungal or insect issue (or nutrient deficiencies (compare basal and canopy leaves) White on plant leaves: powdery mildew (especially in cool shade) White fluff, yellow blogs, and mushrooms on soil surface: not enough airflow or light, or water is being held in the soil and can cause root issues Pinching and deadheading: Annuals are pinched to promote bushier growth Deadheading is a form of pruning that encourages more flowering (stimulates new flowers) Shearing is a faster way to deadhead (cannot always be done without compromising the plant) Cutting back: cut back to ground level or cutting back an inflorescence Fall cleanup annual beds: All plants are pulled Do not till yearly: instead turn the soil Add organic matter Spring Cleanup lawns: Rake thoroughly (remove winter debris) Core sample: to check for compaction and thatch Aerate or topdress if necessary Mowing to remove any succulent fall/winter growth Start when there are consistent warm temps and after snow falls (early-mid April) Perennial beds: Cut back plants that were missed Prune shrubs Clean up debris (leaves/branches) Weeding Pull any missed dead plants Edging beds Look for new growth at the crown Rake Annual beds: Turn dead plant material into soil and improve aeration As peat or compost to increase OM Create design Edging is necessary Fall cleanup: Lawns: Perform regular final mow Backpack blow or rake up further debris Evaluate perennial weeds vs grass health Water well Perennial beds: Cleaning debris/ leaves Cut back herbaceous plants (leave 2-3 inches of growth) (some do not cut back) If you can blow leaves into beds to act as a natural mulch for tender plants and insects Watering deep in fall for plant consumption on Chinook days Annual beds: Pull out annuals Remove perennial weeds Remove blown-in debris/garbage Turn soil Can put down mulch to protect bare soil Thatch and compaction management: Soil compaction: the pressing together of soil particles into a more dense mass by various physical forces Shows up as: poa annua invasion (annual bluegrass) Higher shoot density resists compaction Appropriate thatch layer helps to resist compaction Water acts as a lubricant to accelerate compaction (Moist soils are the most prone) Causes of compaction: external pressure Dynamic force heel/ toe more stressful than an arch or ball of the foot 2-4 passes with machinery may reach 90% of max compaction Uniformity and distribution of pressure are key factors The top 3cm of the rootzone is the MOST affected It can affect roots to a depth of 7.5cm and extend as deep as 40cm Compaction alleviated: Preventive viewpoint: Minimize factors that affect the potential for compaction (soil type, tracks, turf tires) Control and minimize the intensity of use (proper design and plantings, offering a large number of varying routes, careful placement of walks, cart path, and rotating goalposts Remedial viewpoint: Assumes that compaction is always going to be a problem (aerate or rototill) The turfgrass manager: must cooperate in the design process so that the requirements of load bearing and plant growth are met Thatch: a layer of dead and decaying (living) tissue located between the green vegetation and the soil surface Thatch comprises the upper stratum of the medium that supports turfgrass growth When integrated with the soil surface it forms a thatch-like derivative called mat ( Benefits: Increased wear tolerance Aids in resiliency/ moderates soil temps Reduces compaction potential Absorbs and degrades pesticides Reduces water loss from soil Reduces weed seed germination *death of the turfgrass community often follows the destruction of the thatch layer* Causes of thatch: Thatch develops when the rate of accumulation exceeds the rate of decomposition Any factor that stimulates shoot growth will increase the accumulation of organic matter Any factor that reduces microbial activity in the soil will impair the decomposition process Thatch rule of thumb: half the mowing height Thatch problems - above ground: Roots grow into thatch: warmer, wetter, fertilizer catchment Growing points above protective soil zone: crowns are vulnerable to scalping and temps/ plants are easily pulled by hand Lawn puffiness and scalping: often misdiagnosed as dull mowers Prone to dessication Requires excessive management Thatch problems - below ground: Increased disease and insect problems: insects live and feed in the thatch (sod webworms and white grubs) and diseases organisms are harboured in this layer (dollar spot, fairy ring) The impact of fungicides and pesticides reduced Dry soil conditions Control of thatch: Cultural - preventative approach: *Use management practices that encourage decomposition and avoid excess shoot growth Aeration and compaction prevention Top dressing (adds microorganisms, depends how fast it is forming) Use appropriate mowing frequencies and height Minimize pesticides Moisture - keep it watered deeply to encourage roots Aeration and topdressing: Options for thatch buildup: Debris rake - freshens lawn Power rake - thatch control Slicing - thatch / light aeration Aeration (core, solid tine) Tilling and overhaul Verticutter/power rake: slices stolons, relieves minor compaction Solid tine aeration: Pros: This may be done on the entire surface or selected areas Minimal distribution to play, which can be done anytime Quick solution to compaction, air, and water infiltration Several options for varying depths Cons: Only provides temporary relief Tool not available for rent (usually) Spiking: minimal disruption, quick recovery, temporary fix (can be done several times a month is needed) Tine depth: 2.5cm-30cm Deep tine aeration: Pros: Breakthrough soil profiles/ disrupt layering Amend soil profiles deeper Gas exchange goes throughout the entire soil profile Water penetration and increased sub-surface drainage Increased rooting depth Cons: Disruption to play Must top dress afterwards Need healthy turf to perform Core aeration: Pros: All of the same benefits of solid tine plus: Stimulates root growth within the holes Increased shoot growth Rental machines are more available Cons: Disruption of turf surface Longer recovery time compared to solid tine Increased weed development (poa annua) Coring: hollow tine Types of equipment: Piston - linking vertical and forward motion (can overdrive the speed of pistons) expensive Drum rollers - tines on a drum, mounted on a rotating shaft, Quicker but can tear grass out, may not be heavy enough to drive into grass effectively Option 1: leave cores (do this in the fall so they can break up) Pros: cheap Cons: can't be left on playing surface, self-defeating on lawn turf (no amendment, adds to thatch) Option 2: core dispersal Pros: cores are broken up and core cavities are filled with former ones, roots move in quickly and disruption of play is minimized Cons: can add to thatch, no amendment, added cost Core removal and topdressing: Allows soil amendments through topdressing holes Recovery is fairly quick Slow release N added Cons: More Labour Disposal cost Amendment cost Possible layer disease Core aeration for texture amendment: There is only about 3% disruption so it will take multiple treatments to make a real change Topdressing: The practice by which a thin layer of soil (or other material) is applied to an established turf or a new turfgrass planting Selecting topdressing material: If existing soil is favourable, choose something as close to that as possible (can stockpile soil during construction) If existing soil is unfavourable, compost, aged manure, peat moss, zeolites, calcined clay particles, diatomaceous earth - check particle size before you buy *will take many applications to affect texture* Layering: occurs in soil profile through the use of different top dressing materials over time Perched water tables Drainage problem Black layer disease *watch for layering, make sure new material is well worked in Reasons to topdress: Post aeration (surface disruption) Provide crown protection from winter injury/ eliminate ice Add organic matter; clay soils will benefit especially if compacted Improve CEC & microbial activity in sand root zones Improved quality putting surface Preventative measures for thatch development on greens Post sod- may help if there has been desiccation of edges Topdressing rate and frequency: Never cover more than 60% of the leaf blade Like mowing, frequency is based on plant recovery and shoot growth rates. Light, frequent top-dressing: Usually on gold greens for thatch 1-3 week intervals Requires minimal brushing or matting depending on the consistency of the throw Minimal disruption Considerations: Topdress after aeration is usual Watering is good versus over-matting or brushing too much top dressing PRIOR to aeration on new greens will reduce tire rutting Fertilize PRIOR to topdressing, not after (fert is closer to the root zone) Machinery used: manual, centrifugal spreader, or by hand with a shovel Powered mechanical top dresser - large capacity to reduce refilling time Troubleshooting: Disease, deficiency, and damage Nutrient deficiencies: is it localized or generalized Patterned: poor application Salt burning: splotch where it fell Generalized: look at the blades to further diagnose Interveinal chlorosis: iron deficiency Cold Damage: Frost: Replaces dew in cold season: (water in cells freeze, traffic over the frozen tissues ruptures cells Avoid traffic until frost disappears Consider irrigation to melt frost * ice damage also occurs where drainage is poor* Winter dessication: consider using a snow fenc eot help accumulate and protect from warming winds in chinook zones (high value turf) Rodents and insects: Mice, ground squirrels, pocket gophers, moles, dew worms, dog urine Insects: Correctly ID the insect Know its lifecycle; how and when it causes damage Ascertain tolerances Deal with it when its most vulnerable Root feeders: grubs (beetle larvae) Shoot feeders: sod webworm (lawn moth larvae) Burrowing: ants Chinch bug: Symptoms: Irregular shaped brown spots Especially near pavement/ concrete Identify insect first Control: Usually insecticides Turfgrass diseases: Relative humidity (RH): Refers to the amount of moisture in the air: Effects evapotranspiration (ET) RH is greater at plant canopy level Affects the potential for disease High humidity favours penetration and infection of certain pathogens (fungus) - KB/Fescue mixes - powdery mildew, dollar spot, snowmoulds - bentgrass - brown patch, fusarium, dollar spot, melting out, blight Fungal growth in Alberta is favoured by cool, wet weather Diseases: Powdery Mildew: Will not kill turf Appears as whitish powder on leaves Caused by low nightly temps, high humidity, and shade, May appear quite suddenly Seen in the fall The best response is to get rid of the lawn in the area affected Snow Moulds: Caused by fungi that create web-like mycelium Gray - damages mostly leaves Pink - invades crowns and roots Damage is seen as snow melts (late winter, early spring) Circular patches of dead and matted leaf blades; smaller patches may join together Not usually a problem on medium-managed lawns - Major concerns on golf courses and high play areas Fungi are active at temps just above freezing in moist conditions (normally killed by dry cold air) Fall care is crucial - apply fall ferts well before dormancy, or after leaf growth has stopped. Remove all leaves from lawn, and avoid piling snow deeply along pathways No chemical treatment is recommended In most cases healthy growth will resume Fairy Ring: Affects all types of turf Caused by a variety of fungi - converts decomposing matter to N Irregular circles of darker green turf with compacted area in the center Mycelial growth causes soil to be impervious to water Can mask with heavy fertilization and watering Patch diseases: probably a drainage problem Circular dead areas or rings of dead grass (often with live grass in the center) Fungi favoured by wet conditions in spring and fall Factors - soil compaction, soil layering, excessive thatch Remedy - mow higher, overseed Pythium blight: Appears as large irregular dead patches Hot humid weather Main message: Stay within mowing height ranges Provide balanced nitrogen Provide good drainage Avoid thick thatch layers Watch areas of shade Be diligent during times of low night temps and high humidity, heat, and drought stress Susceptible host + pathogen + environment = disease Removal: | No removal: Reduces disease Reduce injury from clipping “piles” Less interference with play | Frequency reduces need to remove clippings Reduces fertiization requirements Clippings can be mulched Insulation layer to moderate temperatures Increases wear tolerance Adds to humus layer and mat Molybdenum - used in nitrogen cycle - N deficiency | Copper -stabilizes chlorophyll(lengthens leaf life) - looks like B deficiency | Chlorine - deficiency=wilt, chlorosis, bronzing toxicity= scorching, firing leaf tips, yellowing, leaf drop | Iron: - Respiration & chlorophyll formation - interveinal chlorosis | Boron - not fully understood | Manganese - absorbed in leaves - looks like IV chlorosis | Zinc - roots and foliar sprays/fungicides - stunted growth, poor seed formation Pros: This may be done on the entire surface or selected areas Minimal distribution to play, which can be done anytime Quick solution to compaction, air, and water infiltration Several options for varying depths | Cons: Only provides temporary relief Tool not available for rent (usually) Pros: Breakthrough soil profiles/ disrupt layering Amend soil profiles deeper Gas exchange goes throughout the entire soil profile Water penetration and increased sub-surface drainage Increased rooting depth | Cons: Disruption to play Must top dress afterwards Need healthy turf to perform Pros: All of the same benefits of solid tine plus: Stimulates root growth within the holes Increased shoot growth Rental machines are more available | Cons: Disruption of turf surface Longer recovery time compared to solid tine Increased weed development (poa annua)