Slide 1
Turfgrass ID:
Elymus repens - Quackgrass
Slide 2
QuackgrassElymus repens
Slide 3
QuackgrassElymus repens
Perennial Noxious weed - THERE ARE NO PROS, NO MANAGEMENT Prefs!!
Has been known to have allelopathic control
95% of lateral buds are dormant
Rhizomes can travel more than 3 metres underground and invade other areas
Slide 4
QuackgrassElymus repens
Once established, very difficult to control due to lack of selective herbicides
Can be controlled at the 3 -4 leaf stage
Must use a non-selective systemic herbicide
Consider “weed & feed”
Repeat every month
In turf control is by “hand painting” leaves with herbicide
Slide 5
QuackgrassElymus repens
Rhizomes can cross underneath sidewalks, come up in cracks in the sidewalk
Ensure new areas to be seeded are kept clean of rhizomes (ie. check loam, buy screened loam etc.) Pick rhizomes!
Use of mulch helps with control in shrub beds - lazy opportunist… but within a lawn, it is nearly impossible.
Slide 6
Rhizomes growing through landscape fabric…
Slide 7
Slide 8
Turfgrass ID:
Poa annua - Annual Bluegrass
Slide 9
Annual BluegrassPoa annua
Apple Green colour - when it is growing in KB / CRF / PR - it stands out.
Considered a weed in our climate!
Very well adapted and will set seed at low mowing heights!
Encourage the grass you do want, so you don't give it a chance!
Slide 10
Annual BluegrassPoa annua
Considered a weed in MOST applications due to incompatible colour and circular growth habit.
Has been known to produce 60 seedlings per square inch
Prefers over-watered compacted ground, will be very competitive in this situation
Very aggressive – can complete its life cycle in 7 weeks
Does not enter summer dormancy; really starts to grow in June
Competitive in places with compaction and too much water
Slide 11
Annual BluegrassPoa annua
If it’s so compaction resistant… why don’t we plant it on purpose?
Very poor winter hardiness & high temperature tolerance
Shallow roots =
Poor drought tolerance
No recuperative potential
Slide 12
Annual BluegrassPoa annua
Areas in which you’ll find it growing:
Heavily compacted areas where no grass will grow
Areas prone to excessive soil moisture (poor drainage)
Poor soil quality (structure/texture) areas
Invades high intensity traffic areas and intensively cultured areas managed under low mowing heights – bowling greens, golf greens
Slide 13
Annual BluegrassPoa annua
Management to discourage growth
Reduce or eliminate compaction
Aerate before summer or in early fall
Longer, less frequent irrigation cycles (Water past its root zone)
Reduce nitrogen levels (it likes .75 kg N)
Restrict phosphorus levels (it needs P to promote stronger roots)
Increase mowing heights above 25 mm
Repair damaged areas quickly
Note that all of these practices will ENCOURAGE other competitive species
Slide 14
Annual BluegrassPoa annua
Slide 15
Annual BluegrassPoa annua
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Slide 1
Turfgrass ID:
Elymus repens - Quackgrass
Slide 2
QuackgrassElymus repens
Speaker Notes
Look at all those dormant buds, roots are ready but no shoots yet. When you pull up the shoots, it stimulates the dormant buds to grow.
Look also, at how deep they are.
Slide 3
QuackgrassElymus repens
Perennial Noxious weed - THERE ARE NO PROS, NO MANAGEMENT Prefs!!
Has been known to have allelopathic control
95% of lateral buds are dormant
Rhizomes can travel more than 3 metres underground and invade other areas
Slide 4
QuackgrassElymus repens
Once established, very difficult to control due to lack of selective herbicides
Can be controlled at the 3 -4 leaf stage
Must use a non-selective systemic herbicide
Consider “weed & feed”
Repeat every month
In turf control is by “hand painting” leaves with herbicide
Speaker Notes
Chemical Control - The most effective way to eradicate quackgrass is by using a herbicide that contains glyphosate (Monsanto Roundup - Certified pesticide applicators). It should be applied when there is no wind and when there will be no rain for 48 hours.
The plant must be green and actively growing for best results. Glyphosate is a non-selective herbicide that will kill almost any green plant it contacts, and also can injure or kill woody plants. It is important to apply glyphosate only to the plants you want to eradicate.One problem with using glyphosate on quackgrass is that up to 95% of the lateral buds on the rhizomes are dormant even though the plant is actively growing. Since herbicides are translocated from the leaves to actively growing plant tissue, after about 7 days the glyphosate degrades and the dormant lateral buds will start to grow new shoots.
It may take more than one application to completely eradicate quackgrass.One way to overcome lateral bud dormancy is to apply nitrogen fertilizer. This will break lateral bud dormancy, and the herbicide will be translocated to the now actively growing plant tissue and kill the entire plant. Repeat the application of glyphosate every 30 to 45 days; avoid cultivation for 2 weeks after each application.In daylily beds or other perennial flower beds quackgrass can be very difficult to control. You will need to use a small applicator like a child's paint brush or small sponge, then be extremely careful to apply the herbicide only to the quackgrass leaves. If you contact the daylily leaves with glyphosate, it can kill them, too.
Slide 5
QuackgrassElymus repens
Rhizomes can cross underneath sidewalks, come up in cracks in the sidewalk
Ensure new areas to be seeded are kept clean of rhizomes (ie. check loam, buy screened loam etc.) Pick rhizomes!
Use of mulch helps with control in shrub beds - lazy opportunist… but within a lawn, it is nearly impossible.
Speaker Notes
It is a lazy opportunist in that it will grow along the path of least resistance. if there is mulch, it will put energy into going far and sprouting rarely, so you can pull up long sections with very little resistance. If there’s just hard clay, or fabric, it will really root into the fabric.
Slide 6
Rhizomes growing through landscape fabric…
Speaker Notes
Because nothing grows through landscape fabric…
Slide 7
Speaker Notes
Seeded lawn infested with quackgrass - it looks like lawn… but you can see the coarser, taller plants and spotty growth… not worth doing anything about in this setting. (note the spruce trees in the background - trying to till this would be pointless).
Slide 8
Turfgrass ID:
Poa annua - Annual Bluegrass
Slide 9
Annual BluegrassPoa annua
Apple Green colour - when it is growing in KB / CRF / PR - it stands out.
Considered a weed in our climate!
Very well adapted and will set seed at low mowing heights!
Encourage the grass you do want, so you don't give it a chance!
Speaker Notes
weakly stoloniferous grass, also spreads vigorously by seed
Slide 10
Annual BluegrassPoa annua
Considered a weed in MOST applications due to incompatible colour and circular growth habit.
Has been known to produce 60 seedlings per square inch
Prefers over-watered compacted ground, will be very competitive in this situation
Very aggressive – can complete its life cycle in 7 weeks
Does not enter summer dormancy; really starts to grow in June
Competitive in places with compaction and too much water
Slide 11
Annual BluegrassPoa annua
If it’s so compaction resistant… why don’t we plant it on purpose?
Very poor winter hardiness & high temperature tolerance
Shallow roots =
Poor drought tolerance
No recuperative potential
Slide 12
Annual BluegrassPoa annua
Areas in which you’ll find it growing:
Heavily compacted areas where no grass will grow
Areas prone to excessive soil moisture (poor drainage)
Poor soil quality (structure/texture) areas
Invades high intensity traffic areas and intensively cultured areas managed under low mowing heights – bowling greens, golf greens
Slide 13
Annual BluegrassPoa annua
Management to discourage growth
Reduce or eliminate compaction
Aerate before summer or in early fall
Longer, less frequent irrigation cycles (Water past its root zone)
Reduce nitrogen levels (it likes .75 kg N)
Restrict phosphorus levels (it needs P to promote stronger roots)
Increase mowing heights above 25 mm
Repair damaged areas quickly
Note that all of these practices will ENCOURAGE other competitive species